Chris' Contemplations
Sometimes mental, sometimes sane, but always what goes on in my brain.
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    • /// what3words

Mon passage spontané à Marseille

19 Minutes

If you ask any of my friends, they will tell you that one thing I have always wanted to do is pack a case and head to the airport and pick a destination.

Marseille was just that. I decided since I wasn’t going to Newcastle (don’t worry young ‘un, it’s still banked for next year) that I would go somewhere else instead.

I chose Marseille. The last-minute choice is a romanticised one and one that can cause stress. I am a planner (much to the chagrin of some of my friends) and like to have things for trips planned right down to the last square of toilet paper I will use for the delicate derrière (see what I did there since I decided on France). No, seriously, I have to have everything planned out and in a logical order too (you should see my iCloud Drive travel folder).

For the last year or so I have wanted to go to Toulouse (that’s where Airbus are based and how cool would it be to see that from the city) and I couldn’t find flights cheap enough for my liking so the day before departure I decided on Marseille.

Jamie and I had been here before as part of our Med Cruise but didn’t get to spend a lot of time here at all. You can read about that trip here. You can read Jamie’s version here. One other reason I chose Marseille was the price of the flights. The base fare was £7.99 each way. Yep, you read that right. Seven of the queen’s pounds and ninety-nine of her dirty copper pennies for each flight.

The most expensive parts of the trip were getting to Stansted and then getting from Marseille to the hostel (and the retour [I did it again. Vive la France]). Both were more expensive than the flights. Who cares right, it’s all about the memories.

I had very little in the way of memories from when Jamie and I were last here (granted, it was in 2012). I guess that’s a good thing because it allowed me to see the city as if I had never been before.

The time in Stansted was a – shall we say fun one. Usually the gates get displayed about 50 minutes before departure but the Ryanair app now says it will display it up to 2 hours before departure in the app and the Stansted website showed it pretty much as soon as I got there.

I thought I would chance my luck and head to the gate. I did just that and thought I was great. I had a good seat overlooking the runway. I was there for about 45 minutes just taking pics and vids. Then it started to get quiet so I looked at the app and website and saw that the gate had changed from 36 to 44. I found someone who told me to pick up a customer service phone. I did that and they told me to look out for a guy in an orange hi-vis. I did that and didn’t see him.

Whilst I was waiting this group rocked up for a flight to Paphos that had closed about 30 minutes before they got there and it started to kick off. I didn’t want to see it – but I also did. Finally, the guy turned up and walked us to the lift and then out another door. It turns out that 2 different sets of gates back onto one another and my mind was blown. I finally figured out the labyrinth that is Stansted.

I got to gate 44 only to be told that the gate had changed again – this time thankfully to gate 43 just across the hall. I was still first on the plane though. Get in me.

Note to self: probably best to wait for an hour before departure and then an extra 10 minutes for the screen in the departure hall to update before heading to the gate. Just saying.

The flight to Marseille was at 19:25 and we landed around 22:20 local time and I got to the hostel around midnight.

If you are double vaccinated you may enter France without an official reason for travel. The requirements from you are a sworn statement to say that you haven’t been in contact with anyone with Covid-19 symptoms and you don’t have symptoms yourself. You will also need a Sanitary Pass (this is also required to eat in at most places and to visit most places). The Sanitary Pass is the EU issued digital Covid certificate or the NHS issued vaccination certificate. Be prepared to explain what the NHS one is at the border and at establishments. Be prepared to keep saying “Royame-Uni” which is French for United Kingdom. The best code to get them to scan is the one on your first vaccine dose. I don’t know why but that started to work when they scanned the first one instead of the second. Be sure to also show them the date on the second dose so they can see it has been at least 14 days.

I figured since Jason was working the late shift he could be my company from the train station to the hostel (it did look really sketchy). As I was on the phone with him walking I almost got hit by a car because I looked the wrong way. All I heard on the other end of the phone was laughing and several expletives and the questioning of my intelligence. I will always maintain I was tired and under the weather (damn cold got me) and that was my excuse.

I wanted to get to the hostel as quickly as possible for 2 reasons: 1 – the area looked really dodgy; 2 – I had a walking tour booked the next day and I also had to go pick up my Marseille Tourist Card and wanted to do that and eat before meeting the tour.

I settled in for the night and managed to get some decent sleep. I will talk about what I did each day. Restez avec moi lecteur, ça va mieux. Je promets!

 

  • Day 1 - Marseille

    Today was probably the day that was going to be busiest in the morning as I needed to go to the tourist information office and pick up my Marseille City Pass (which, I would recommend getting because of the stuff you get to do with it and that it is also your public transport pass). You can get them in 24/48/72 hour bundles and they last for 24/48/72 full hours from when they are first activated.

    I took a slow walk down to the Vieux Port area to firstly find some souvenirs and then some breakfast and then the tourist office (or any order of the three).

    I found a souvenir shop – and it was the one that Jamie and I got our magnets from when we were here in 2012. It was about the only part of Marseille that was familiar (at that moment in time) to me. What I found weird was that they only had souvenirs that said Marseille or that said Provence. I couldn’t find anything that said France. There were no lanyards at all. Shot glasses only said Marseille (I get shot glasses for the young ‘un, magnets for Ken & Jamie, magnets, flag, lanyards for me). I guess it means I just have to go back to somewhere else in France to see if I can find them!

    If you want to know how much I collect these for me this is what I have: 21 flags, 45 lanyards, 121 magnets. With the lanyards and flags, I usually get city and country (only if I haven’t got a country one already).

    I digress. back on with the day. Since I couldn’t find any that said France I decided to go find the tourist information office to pick up my city pass. I got to where I thought it said on the map and did a walk around of the whole building and couldn’t find a door. I decided to walk up the street some more and then I saw the massive signs for it and figured that is where it was.

    In my best French I managed to converse with the lady behind the counter before we started speaking in English. I am proud of myself that I know enough French to be able to have a mini conversation and get the information I needed.

    After getting the pass, I still had about an hour before the tour started so I went to the Carrefour in the shopping centre and got some chocolate-filled brioche buns, Milka, Sprite, water, Orangina. It wasn’t as expensive in the supermarkets as I thought it would be. All of that was just about €8.

    I found somewhere in the Vieux Port area to sit down (it was a McDonald’s. I admit it. I went there for breakfast but they were closed) and have my breakfast and then wait for the tour guide. I was apprehensive as one of the tours I did in Gdansk was info overload and I wasn’t in the mood for that again. I will say that it wasn’t like that.

    He started the tour by telling us that Marseille was populated by the Greeks and that is where the foundation of the city was started. The place we were standing was in the water at the time. He showed us a picture of how far back the coastline was at the time of inhabitation. You will see from my pictures that there is a commemoration plaque on the ground for this.

    He did tell us that in 2013 Marseille became the European Capital of Culture and this started the process of gentrifying the city so it would look good. They cleaned building facades, built new structures, rid the city of its drug and crime reputation, narrowed streets, pedestrianised others. After he said this, it made sense why Jamie and I saw all this construction when we were there.

    After we were done here, he took us to the oldest part of the city. Sadly I didn’t get to go in and see the ruins as this would have been cool to see. I only got pictures from the viewing platform above.

    Once done here, we walked along the oldest street in France. It is called Rue Henri Fiocca. Napoleon wanted to build a city that people could be proud of and wanted it to be grand. The trouble is – it didn’t end up being like that. Allegedly Marseille is one of the places in the world where it is less expensive to live in the city centre than it is to live on the outskirts. This has happened because the rich decided they didn’t want to deal with the things that came with no running water, no plumbing, no easy access and so moved to outside the city limits.

    We than walked up Grand Rue to see the old hospital that was abandoned and then let out to a hotel chain to give it a new lease of life. We also got a good view of Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde on the other side of the harbour. The locals don’t call it by the full name but la Bonne-mère. It is a church built on top of a castle on top of a hill. I did visit this today too, but you will need to be patient for that part of the day. You can do it – I believe in you.

    After the little stop here, we were taken to a church with a tower where you can sleep in the tower if you want (obviously for money) and this was the second area in Marseille that was familiar. It was familiar because of the steep steps and the drain that runs down the middle of the steps.

    This part of Marseille is really nice because they have a lot of street art all around this area. It was somewhere that I decided I would come back to see before I left to go home.

    I walked slowly as we were in this area so I could take as many pictures of the street art as possible.

    We ended up walking down towards Cathédrale La Major. As we got there, there was a massive group of people and lots of police and army nearby too. We were told it was the blessing of the visitation of the cathedral and there was also a prayer for the manager of the local Marseille football club who got the club to win the Champions League.

    Once we were done here, we walked around the port to Fort Saint-Jean and this is where the tour ended.

    I went inside the fort and had a slight issue trying to get in because you need to show a sanitary pass to get into a lot of places. The sanitary pass is your vaccination record. They check the QR code on the vaccination record and that determines if you meet the criteria. I had an issue because mine is NHS issued and they had trouble recognising it. I had to use my best French to advise that this was from Royame-Uni (UK) and that it was accepted for crossing the border. It was finally understood and they allowed me in. This was good because I was desperate to powder my nose.

    I spent about 2 hours here walking around and enjoying the views and soaking in the suns rays.

    I left here and then decided to take the road train up to The Holy Mother Church. The ride around the coastline was really nice. The sun was shining and there was a nice breeze. The views were stunning too. I got some pictures of the Friouls and the island I was going to visit the next day.

    I spent a couple of hours up at the church and was amazed by the views from it. I got a lot of pictures across Marseille from here. I just didn’t know where to look. The views across the Friouls were really good too.

    Top Tip: You can catch the city bus from the Vieux Port to get here. The service is number 60. It’s the cheaper way of getting there too.

    Once I was done here I was ready for some food and some time to chill so I headed back to Vieux Port and to get some fast food and a wander around before going to get some much needed sleep.

    All in all, today was a good day.

    Total steps: 17,040

    Total miles: 8.1

    Below are some pictures from today

  • Day 2 - île D'If & Marseille

    When I went to pick up my Marseille City Pass, I asked which of the islands was the best to visit and I was told that D’If was the best one because of the castle. The lady told me that Ratonneau was usually best for swimmers and walkers. I absolutely wouldn’t have minded the walking but I wanted to do the island that was going to offer the best pictures and views.

    I headed to pick up the boat (after doing my trusty stop off at Carrefour for food and drink) and queued for about 20 minutes before we were allowed to board. I was just in time for the one that was about to leave but wanted to wait so I could get a good seat for the views and pictures. The trip out to the island was about 15 minutes. I loved it. The sound of the water and the sun and breeze.

    We stopped at the island and I waited for everyone else to get to the entry point so I could get some good pictures without anyone in them. I know, I shouldn’t really care but I do.

    The castle entry was included in the City Pass but if you just took the boat out you had to pay too. You again had to show your sanitary pass to get in and this was less of an issue this time round thankfully. As everyone else headed to the castle, I decided I would have a walk around the entire island before heading to the castle.

    The walk around was nice and peaceful and afford some really great views of Marseille and Ratonneau. I got quite a few panoramas here and a lot of normal pictures too. I spent about an hour walking around the island before heading to the castle. The castle is said to be the inspiration for Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo.

    The castle has all these rooms with some famous names above them. I am not able to find if it was used as a prison or similar. This would suggest that it was but I am unsure on this.

    The views from the top were stunning. I spent about 30 minutes inside as I was getting irritated by people. I was still not 100% so couldn’t really be bothered with much. I could tell I wasn’t feeling the best as I had my phone on airplane mode most of the day too.

    After I was done here I found a seat in the shade and had some food and drink before heading back for the boat to Marseille. What a rigmarole this was too. I got in the queue only to be told that I wasn’t allowed on that boat as it wasn’t going straight back to Marseille and I would have to wait despite it saying I could get back on. They said it would be back in 10 minutes but it ended up being 25. I made sure I was on first so I could get a good seat for the views.

    Once I was back in Marseille, I decided to go tram surfing and make use of my public transport ticket. As I was going round on the tram, I made a note of some places that I wanted to go back to. I didn’t go back to them that day though as it was dark by the time I had done what I wanted to.

    I went to walk around the street art neighbourhood and then to Cathédrale La Major before finding me some food. I went to get back on the tram but read there were delays due to demonstration further along the line so I got on the metro to the last stop and had a wander around there. It wasn’t a very nice part of the city. Lots of litter, lots of street sellers, lots of abandoned buildings. I went to the Lidl there and that seemed a little sketchy. They had security check your bags as you went in. I was happy to be out of there and back on the metro towards the tram. I spent the rest of the day tram surfing before heading back to the hostel and deciding to have a wander to a church I saw up the hill. Some good views from here too.

    Total steps: 18,297

    Total miles: 9.0

    Below are some pictures from today

    île D’If & Château D’If

    Marseille

  • Day 3 - Marseille

    Today was my last day here and I wanted to do as much as possible but I also wanted a lie in. The dilemma of it all. I decided to lie in and I was up and out by about 10:15. Super late for me. Oh well. I was glad of the rest.

    I decided today I would go and see the places I had noted from yesterday and these were mainly Palais Longchamp and St Vincent de Paul Church along with some tram surfing to kill time.

    I found a Spar that was open and got some food and drink to take with me on my jaunts for today. I had a quick look around the area where the church was before heading back on the tram.

    I went to Palais Longchamp and it was even more stunning in person than it was from the tram. I am not gonna lie – all the water there was what drew me to it. I decided to head to the bottom to get some pictures and then head into the grounds to have a walk around.

    I walked to the top and sat there right next to the water for about 30 minutes before wandering around the grounds some more. I am really so mesmerised by the sight and sound of the water. But for the need to powder my nose, I probably would still be there now.

    I went to find a bathroom and had to get a ticket to the Natural History museum (thankfully free) just so I could use the toilet.

    After I was done here, I went back on the tram and went on the tramline I hadn’t yet. I went to the end of the line and I stumbled upon a cemetery and on the way to the end of the line I also saw a couple of other places I wanted to visit.

    I spent about 45 minutes just walking around the cemetery. I find it so relaxing. It always amazes me how peaceful they are despite being in the open and close to major roads. The graves here were so ornate. It was also super packed and huge. From the looks of it, they appear to bury families in the same plot. I thought that was interesting. I haven’t really seen much of that here.

    Once I was done here, I got my bearings and got a drink (it was really warm) and found the church I wanted to visit. I did that and then headed towards the hostel so I could go to the toilet and have more of a wander in that area. I did that and then went back on the tram and did some more tram surfing and went and sat at a train station (because I love trains too).

    After I was done here, I had an hour or so to kill so I went back on the tram and then headed to the hostel to pack as I needed to be up at 02:35 (yep, any shed tears will be welcome and appreciated) ready to shower and head to the train station for the bus to the airport.

    I packed and the headed to bed but didn’t really get much sleep for various reasons. I was shattered though so there wasn’t any reason I shouldn’t have slept good.

    Total steps: 11,519

    Total miles: 5.5

    Below are some pictures from today

I was so shattered when it came time to leave to get the bus to the airport. I had about 90 minutes of proper sleep and that definitely wasn’t enough. This is how tired I was. I read the sign to leave the hostel and I still had to ask for help. The sign said press the button and push the door. I pressed the button and pulled and pulled on the door and it didn’t work. The guy that came out to help me read the sign out to me and told me it wasn’t difficult. I was so damn tired like. Don’t judge me.

I took a slow walk to the bus station and didn’t see the steps to get in so went up the ramp where it said not to. I managed to get about 15 minutes of sleep on the bus. The airport departure hall was so run down. It was like a storage shed.

If you are double vaccinated you currently do not need a legitimate reason to leave France. As the UK is on the French Amber list, you need a legitimate reason to leave the country if you are not double vaccinated. You shouldn’t need to do this to go to your home country if it is not on the French Green list but it is worth doing to avoid any issues at the border.

It finally came time to board to fly back home and I was looking forward to it so I could sleep. I took my obligatory take off video and slept for about 15/20 minutes before the turbulence woke me up. You know it’s bad when the cabin crew sit down too.

We finally landed in Stansted and I was so happy to be back on home turf as I knew I would be home soon (I say soon, I had 3 hours to kill before the train).

I asked the train conductor if I was able to use the train that was in to get home and he told me because of the ticket type I could only travel on the booked train. Fair enough. I sat in the waiting room for my train. A worker comes in to tell us that a train had been cancelled because of a break down. I thought nothing of it. I then checked the train website only to find that all lines between Stansted Airport and Cambridge were blocked because of this breakdown and it would be around lunch time before trains would run again. I certainly didn’t want to wait any longer than I already had.

I found a worker to ask and he directed me to the ticket office which was closed. I then found another worker and asked how I would get back to Peterborough and he told me I needed to go into London and then back up. What a nightmare.

I had a to-do with the train companies on Twitter because they didn’t know what the ticket acceptance and routes were and I didn’t want to be charged for another ticket. The train I was meant to be on was the 10:27 direct to Peterborough getting me in at 11:49. What I had to do was get the closest train leaving the airport to London. I then had to change at Liverpool Street and get the underground to King’s Cross and then a train from there to Peterborough. I remembered that the train stops at Farringdon (as did the tube) and I changed there as I didn’t want the hassle of explaining why I came down to London to go back to Peterborough.

When I got to Liverpool Street, the worker there suggested I go back up to Bishop’s Stortford and get the shuttle bus to Cambridge that nobody knew about. I told him I would rather chance my luck on the tube and the train than have to go back that way again.

I finally got into Peterborough 90 minutes later than I should have done. I was so glad to be back home and chilling before work.

All in all, Marseille was a good trip and I would say visit it if you get the chance.

Total steps: 46,856

Total miles: 22.6

You can view my Marseille pictures [slink k=”mrspics” c=”#FFFFFF”]here[/slink]

You can view my île D’If pictures [slink k=”cdipics” c=”#FFFFFF”]here[/slink]

 

chris | Friday October 15th 2021 | Travel| Chateau D'If, Europe, France, Ile D'If, Marseille, Travel | 0 Comments

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